I will need to invest in some spanner wrenches, as using 2 mini screwdrivers to torque the rings holding the front lens elements was risky and difficult. Disassembling the lens was tricky, but doable, and hopefully it would be a little easier on the larger Hi-Matic 7s. I've dabbled in this recently, trying to restore a Minoltina AL-S. The blades have to be very clean, or else there will be too much friction, and that's why the shutter gets stuck.

Once it is releasing normally, wet a folded bit of tissue with lighter fluid, and holding it with tweezers, swab the surface of the blades clean. If it doesn't move, try gently nudging the blades with something soft, like a wooden chopstick of a toothpick. Set the speed to 1/60th and keep releasing the shutter until it starts operating again. Hold the camera face up, and drip 2-3 drops of lighter fluid on the blades. Take out all of the lens glass (both from the front, and from the back.this is why you need a lens spanner). Your shutter is not broken, it is just a little dirty. '.making a clicking noise when you press the release but the actual shutter blades are not opening.' You can even make one yourself if you're so inclined.buy a cheapo long-nose pliers and grind the ends off.ДЄnybody know how much a CLA for this camera might cost? I'm going to bring it in today for an estimate. Spanner wrenches makes it easier to remove the front lens elements (among other things) and most importantly not scratch/damage anything. There's no such thing as a dumb question. Prob a dumb question but what do the spanner wrenches for?

Remember LIGHTLY.until the shutter opens up. You'll have to remove the front lens element to get to the shutter and lightly lightly lubricate the shutter with naptha (lighter fluid). I was able to 'massage' the shutter on my 7sii and my Canonet (yes I know they are different cameras) but the process is similiar. Make sure you have the right tools to do the job as you might scratch your body. If you're willing to give it a go, then I say go for it. My Hi-matic 9 got the treatment and works fine now (over 5 celcius anyhow.) Best of luck! Search around the net or try here for tips. I do some half assed repair from time to time, and sticky shutters were easy to fix. Patience, a set of spanner wrenches and some lighter fluid does the trick. Camera seems to be in good cosmetic condition though. Ha.Well, if that doesn't inspire confidence then I don't know what will.Finding a HiMatic specialist isn't the easiest thing.I'm in the Boston area.I think it's weird it's making the *click* but the shutter isn't opening. Besides, the problem can reside in the shutter itself, if the rest is OK. There will be a mechanism to transmit the push-button movement to the shutter trigger itself in Hi-Matics. Has anyone ever fixed this problem? Or is this a lost cause?ДЄNY shutter problem, even the simpliest one can be a lottery to fix by oneself. ( flash x-sync at 1/20 sec.Right now my Hi-Matic 7s is making a clicking noise when you press the release but the actual shutter blades are not opening.

Exposure: CdS meter coupled with shutter meter cell within the filter mounting ring.

Films: 35mm film of 25 - 500 ASA film speed.

However, the black FP was identical except for the inclusion of a self-timer. There is speculation that the 'P' stood for 'Professional', because at that time, black bodied cameras were considered more professional. The camera had a flash guide number selector which provided an automatic aperture control depending on the distance for flashlight photography.ДЄlong with the silver and all-black HI-MATIC F variants, Minolta also released a black-bodied version that they called the HI-MATIC FP. The CdS meter did control exposure time and aperture. The rangefinder had only parallax marks, no mechanical parallax correction. It had a lighter (350g compared with 560g) and more compact camera body than the Hi-Matic E, and was less costly, with fewer features. In 1972 Minolta released a new version of their Hi-Matic consumer rangefinder cameras, the HI-MATIC F, with the less sophisticated 38mm (f2.7) Rokkor lens.

Minolta hi-matic e repair